Two-Fisted Mario’s

Mario knows classic pizza's not just for breakfast anymore.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Jul 27 2006

Two-Fisted Mario's must drive John Pool nuts. Here he's doing his international thing, throwing down the masala pizzas and the lobster pizzas and the freaky rattlesnake pizzas -- but at 9 p.m. on a Friday night, there's no one at Pizzeria Mundo (see review). Meanwhile, just around the corner, Two-Fisted Mario's has a packed patio, a full house and lines out the door. This place rocks and rolls from mid-day until midnight and beyond.

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Two-Fisted Mario's

1626 Market St.
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Restaurant > Pizza

Region: Downtown Denver

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303-623-3523

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One reason for the crowds: Two-Fisted Mario's (and Mario's Double Daughter's Salotto, next door) are hip. They're well-designed in an offhandedly cool, organically divey way that speaks to a locals-only honesty that's a hallmark of the best pizza joints. But another reason is the food: Mario's offers a near-perfect imitation of the East Coast, New York-knockoff thin-crust pizza. Sure, there are only seventeen possible toppings for that pie -- with pineapple being the most adventurous -- but the super-thin-sliced pepperoni, the sweet sauce and canned black olives are what a certain class of pizza-philes expect from a proper slice. Mario's is doing a kind of pizza available every 500 yards back on the East Coast: an aggressively non-gourmet pie that millions of people grew up on and still crave like Italian ice, Friday fish fries and 100 percent humidity.

Beyond that, Mario's sells a slice for under two bucks and serves until three in the morning. The staff (though not always quick, cool or competent) seems like it's having a good time. And as a bonus, they're making pies that turn into great leftovers. Cold, the double-cheese-and-pepperoni is so good that it's worth picking up two mediums on a Friday night just to have one waiting for breakfast come Saturday morning.

Does Mario's have the best pizza in Denver? Not by a long stretch. But this is definitely one of the better versions of that cheap, East Coast classic you'll find in town. And at Mario's, you can still find it an hour after last call.

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