Booty Call

Sketch has an oyster bar -- with eight varieties last time I was there, half of which I'd never heard of, served with cocktail sauce and a mignonette that tastes like malt vinegar. Sketch will do plateaus de fruits de mer on request and lobster cocktails and oyster shooters paired with the bar's choice of vodka. It offers caviar service on the floor: Caspian sturgeon eggs at market price, served with the traditional chopped egg, onion, sour cream, toast points and ice-cold potato juice.

And because it fancies itself a wine bar, Sketch has a wine list. I don't know if it's a good wine list or not, since I've never opened it -- and even if I had, I'm grossly unqualified to tell a good list from a bad one. Instead, I stick with the beer and mezcal, which are just fine.

Mark Manger

This spud's for you: Sketch serves both meals and late-night snacks.

Location Info

Map

Sketch Food and Wine

250 Steele St.
Denver, CO 80206

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Central Denver

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Details

250 Steele Street, 303-333-1763. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. daily

Oysters: $2-$3 each
Crab cocktail: $10
Olives: $2
Carpaccio: $8< br>Artichoke: $7
Oysters Rockefeller: $9
Roasted chicken: $14
Hanger steak: $19
Linguine with clams: $12< br>Burger: $9
Desserts: $6

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More About

• Sean Yontz
• Jesse Morreale
• Miller High Life
• Eating Out
• Foods

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But one of these days I'm going to have to tell Yontz and Morreale that a culotte steak ought to be called a culotte steak even if you can probably get an extra three bucks per plate these days by calling it hanger. I'm going to have to tell them that their artichokes suck. I'm going to have to tell them that I don't love everything about Sketch, but that I do like it a lot. And then I'm going to explain that sometimes "like" is enough when it's late at night and there's nowhere else to go.

I'm going to have to tell my friends that their restaurant is my culinary booty call.

And I'm not looking forward to that conversation. Something tells me they're just going to take it wrong.