Spain Cycle

Swimclub 32 is ready to take the plunge.

A A A Comments By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Sep 21 2006

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One of Golub's favorite restaurants is New York's Blue Ribbon -- a place very popular with the food-service crowd because it serves late and has a great, borderless, almost abstract menu. You can go there at 2 a.m. for a dozen Malpeque oysters one night and return for pierogi the next. That's the kind of place he'd like Swimclub to mimic.

"Look, we're not married to anything," he tells me. "At the end of the day, so long as you're doing it good and doing it right, that's all that matters."

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Chipotle Mexican Grill

1644 E. Evans Ave.
Denver, CO 80210

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: South Denver

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Leftovers:Last Friday, Yoshi Shiuchi and his wife, Ayumi, celebrated a very important anniversary -- the hundredth day of Sushi Yoshi, their restaurant at 406 Center Drive in Superior. And even though the place has been open since June, they called it their grand opening.

"It's an important day," Ayumi told me, and that's true -- many restaurants don't last even this long. But it was also a way for Sushi Yoshi to show off its talents both on the floor (where Ayumi performed on the koto, a Japanese harp, alongside other Japanese musicians) and behind the bar. Even in this market crowded with sushi bars and sushi chefs, Yoshi has an impressive resumé, with stints at Sushi Tora in Boulder as well as Sushi Sasa -- where he worked side by side with Wayne Conwell and frequently made my dinner. (Assisting Yoshi here is Craig Amidon, ex of Hapa Sushi and Sushi Tora.)

Before Yoshi came to this country, he spent a full ten years as an apprentice to a Japanese master in the Kobe and Osaka area. "He did everything; that's what's different," Ayumi said of her husband. "All the way from the bottom jobs, all the way up."

Which means that Yoshi didn't just learn sushi, but everything about authentic Osakan Japanese cuisine. And that's why the menu of the tiny, 35-seat Sushi Yoshi offers a full board of traditional sushi, Osaka-style sushi (which is rectangular and pressed, according to Ayumi, made mostly with mackerel and unagi), teriyaki, tempura (cooked in a special unmilled brown-rice oil -- something I'd never heard of before -- that Yoshi gets from Japan), hamachi kama, and combos of all the above served bento-box style.

During his years in Colorado, Yoshi picked up a few more tricks. He uses organic veggies whenever possible, put an ostrich carpaccio on the menu that I really want to try, and instituted a Thursday happy hour with two-for-one beers and hot sake.

Hooray for multiculturalism.

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