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His menu (some of which is already in place) will be Asian flavors translated through European technique. "Duck confit with five-spice," he said, switching suddenly into a cook's verbal shorthand. "Two ways, right? Breast with a plum-wine and soy marinade? Serve it with new potatoes and bok choy. True, authentic Chinese flavors and true, authentic European flavors together. Blue prawns from Hawaii -- I'll grill them head-on -- then maybe red-dragon prawns as an entree, with scallion risotto. But real risotto, you know? Real Arborio rice. Real European technique."

He went on and on, talking about a pho spinoff with serious, low-cooked Vietnamese broth like a consommé and interesting ingredients; about chef-tasting menus (for which he is justifiably famous), about lunches (everything under ten bucks) and sushi, too. "Not a huge list," he insisted. "Just clean, great fish. No gimmicks. No cheesy rolls. Nothing." He wants to ease into dinners, bringing on new dishes slowly, with confidence.

"Look, man, I can't go anywhere now," he said. "I have to stay. I've put everything I have in my life and then some into this restaurant now. I'm massively in debt. I have to make this work."

Location Info


Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse

1770 13th St.
Boulder, CO 80302

Category: Restaurant > Brunch

Region: Boulder

Spoken like a true owner.

Leftovers: Oops. In last week's "Grill of My Dreams," my rave review of Buenos Aires Grill, at 2191 Arapahoe Street, I said the place was only open for dinner. Turns out that in August, owner Francis Carrera and his crew added lunch Tuesday through Friday. Sorry about that.

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