Going to Dumpling Town

Mark Manger

The kitchen at Szechuan Chinese Restaurant knows how to turn up the heat.

Location Info

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Szechuan Chinese

9090 W. 6th Ave.
Lakewood, CO 80215

Category: Restaurant > Chinese

Region: West Denver Suburbs

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2 user reviews	Write A Review
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Details

9090 West Sixth Avenue, Lakewood, 303- 232-4558. Hours: 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

Dumplings: $5.25
Wonton soup (for 2): $3.50
Sizzling rice soup: $5.50- $10.50
Salt and pepper shrimp: $10.25
Sweet and sour chicken: $7.95
Beef with snow peas: $8.25< br>Royal chicken: $7.95
Tofu: $6.95

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I haven't yet tried the duck dishes here, but I will. Someday. I haven't yet figured out the difference between sesame chicken and newsesame chicken (they both cost the same on the menu). And I've purposely avoided the pu pu platters because I've become skittish about any presentation involving a miniature Sterno-fired barbecue grill -- a sure sign of a dish made more for visual effect than taste. But on my last visit, I finally got around to ordering the salt-and-pepper shrimp, which were fantastic -- lightly battered in a salt-and-pepper-heavy mix, then fried quickly and salted again before service. The beef with snow peas was also great, partly because this kitchen (unlike most Chinese restaurant kitchens I've encountered) slices its beef very thick and cooks it very fast. In flavor and texture, it compares to fondue beef -- quickly fried in boiling oil, then removed while still tender -- done in lovely, sticky bean sauces and brown sauces and curry sauces calibrated for allowing the flavor of the meat to shine through.

Next week or the week after, I'll be back. After getting lost again. But what you find when you finally arrive at Szechuan overcomes any obstacle. The dumplings alone are worth the drive.