From Moment to Moment

Mark Manger

Travel to Venice by way of LoDo.

Location Info

Map

Venice Ristorante & Wine Bar

1700 Wynkoop St.
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Downtown Denver

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Venice Ristorante

5946 S. Holly St.
Englewood, CO 80111

Category: Restaurant > Italian

Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs

Photos

Details

1700 Wynkoop Street, 303-534-2222. Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Monday-Friday, 4- 10:30 p.m. daily

Campania tasting: $50
Sicily tasting: $50
Mozzarella caprese: $5.95
Lobster ravioli: $12.95
Gnocchi: $12.95
Scalopine: $16.95

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More About

• Venice (Italy)
• Alessandro Carollo
• Bryan Moscatello
• Italian Food and Cooking
• Foods

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And then cannoli, made fresh, filled with sweet ricotta and cinnamon cream, capped at each end by half a poached and candied cherry. I'm given three, eat one, take two to go and am missing the table already before I am even out the door. Missing the food, yes, even though I am no longer hungry, but also missing all the things that food means even as we are eating it. This Venice is not yet quite the best restaurant it can be, but it's so close I can see flawlessness rounding the corner. All that's absent is time, history and a sense of place that isn't a memory of some other place.

But in the meantime, it has moments and it has mozzarella, and until age solidifies Venice in its place, moments and mozzarella are enough.