A Pizza the Action

No matter how you slice it, Denver does not have the best pie.

Naples native Virgilio Urbano uses brick-lined ovens for his pies.
Mark Manger
Naples native Virgilio Urbano uses brick-lined ovens for his pies.

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Bene Gourmet Pizza

2623 E. 2nd Ave.
Denver, CO 80206-4702

Category: Restaurant > Pizza

Region: Central Denver

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Bene Gourmet Pizza
2623 East Second Avenue
720-941-9222
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Friday; noon-9 p.m. Saturday; noon-8 p.m. Sunday.
Margherita: $15.50
Thai chicken: $16.25
Pepperoni: $16.25
Pear and gorgonzola salad: $9

Virgilio's Pizzeria
7986 West Alameda Avenue, Lakewood
303-985-2777
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday.
Margherita: $12.49
Garlic knots: $2.99/dozen
Slice $2.25

Closed Location

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But the real killer at Virgilio's -- the real reason to rave about the place, and the reason I'll return -- are the garlic knots. They're nothing more than a twist of pizza dough, daubed with garlic butter and baked, but that's enough. While Virgilio's piles garlic on the pizzas and uses it as a base for almost all the other flavors represented on the menu, it takes a subtle approach here, adding just a hint, a touch that makes you want to keep eating more and more and more. While everyone's still fighting over who's got the best pizza, these garlic knots are clear winners.

Everyone needs a trick these days. International pizzas, healthy pizzas, organic pizzas, pizzas covered with fruit or served by naked ladies (as far as I know, no one does that yet -- but I'm patient). Everyone needs something. So while Bene might be taking the high ground with its healthy slant and friendly service, I'm a classicist. I'll take surliness and speed. And a double order of garlic knots to go.

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