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Cook's Shelf

Ferran Adria has created a real tome on the range.

I've been through a fair amount of these scenes myself and understand that any place that hasn't already closed (like Istanbul Grill, one of the places I'd loved in 2006, whose former space at 10009 East Hampden Avenue is under construction) -- or announced an imminent closure (like Sambuca, which closed after New Year's Eve) -- will keep quiet until the accountants determine just how bad last year really was. And about the time everyone has recovered from their hangovers, there'll be more action than anyone wants to see.

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