By Joel Warner
By Michael Roberts
By Alan Prendergast
By Michael Roberts
By Michael Roberts
By Amber Taufen
By Patricia Calhoun
By William Breathes
If any restaurant reviewer is up to the task of appraising Westminster's astounding O's Steak & Seafood restaurant and its chef, Ian Kleinman, it's your Jason Sheehan. Few, if any, critics have his mix of relevant traits: experience, fair-mindedness, honesty and the culinary expertise to cope with the challenge of Kleinman's magic in his kitchen working with liquid nitrogen. And the verbal mastery to eloquently express his findings.
I don't know who is the greater alchemist in his profession — Kleinman or Sheehan — in creating his respective golden product. Molecular gastronomy, Sheehan explains, is "a science-driven reimagining of cuisine that includes everything from the use of immersion blenders and thermal circulators to atom-up revising of the laws of cookery." Such wizardry is planned with Kleinman's rare know-how, discipline and the boldness to experiment enough to give you a tableside sorbet of Colorado peaches made with liquid nitrogen and the combination of other ingredients unlikely to be found elsewhere.
Everyone should read (or reread) Sheehan's review in last week's issue. They will be entertained and informed. He is extremely literate. He is serious. He is funny. He writes with ease. He writes like someone talking quietly in a corner or over a cup of coffee, unhurried, without stress. Another example from a review of another restaurant, a year or so ago: "All of you health nuts are going to feel pretty stupid someday, lying there in your hospital bed dying of nothing in particular. All of you joggers, you twig-and-berry vegans, you juicers, you fasters and no-fat, meatless and sugar-free fanatics — you are going to die, too. And when the Grim Reaper sneaks up on you 198 years from now and your friends find you at the kitchen table face-down in your Grape Nuts, they'll ask, 'How did that happen? He looked so healthy.'"
Sheehan is good. Very good. But maybe you know that already.
I enjoyed the Message about the stickers put on the fronts of the Denver Post and Rocky Mountain News. When I pick up the two papers in my yard each morning, I rip off the stickers and rip out the inserts, classified section, kids' section, high-school sports section and other dross, and stuff it all back in the plastic bag and toss it into my dumpster. As long as I can rip the stickers off and they don't destroy the reading material underneath, I could not care less. There are several more ominous sins being committed by Denver's dailies, and they're why newspapers are failing. They include:
1. The obnoxious, creeping ads that obliterate the news on the front of each paper's website.
2. The on-time delivery of both papers that has become increasingly dicey in recent weeks. It's bad enough that the papers have only 6 a.m. guaranteed weekday delivery, but the 7 a.m. on weekends is inexcusable. Even worse is the 8 to 9 a.m. delivery to boxes outside breakfast restaurants. When my home-delivered copy gets there before I leave home — an increasingly less likely occurrence — I take it to the restaurant, and the other diners descend on me like vultures, because no copies have been delivered to the paper box outside. Almost everyone I encounter is like me: If they miss reading the paper at breakfast, it goes unread that day. This may sound trivial, but it's crucial in why newspapers are dropping like a rock.
3. I don't miss the long-winded, emotional drivel of Diane Carman or Jim Spencer. They mainly carry the water of the unions they belong to and are incapable of objective thought. David Harsanyi is not conservative enough for my tastes, but at least his columns are grounded in fact and are very concise.
The Glenns are so '90s. Westword, why would you give Recreate '68 any attention at all — much less the cover of your (sometimes) fine paper? You are just playing into their hands. To make sure that we don't have to hear their tired old protests during the 2008 convention, I'm willing to take up a collection to send the Glenns on a nice, one-way trip to Disneyland next summer.
Your Denver protester story is funnier than hell. It's a perfect testament to the notion that idiot liberals never realize which side of their bread is buttered. Since l968, we've had nearly forty years of out-of-control socialism that was demanded by the libs of the 1968 convention. Today's government handouts are so completely high that the 1968 libs would've scoffed out loud if they had been told how high they would be forty years later. Every single aspect of government handouts has skyrocketed since 1968, and still the Maxist-socialist greedy moron wants more. But that's what spoiled children do: always want more while slapping the hand that feeds them.
I'm lovin' it — as I'm telling you now like I told you then, I'll be on the sidelines with a grin.