Top

dining

Stories

 

East Side Kosher Deli

An ethnic oasis in Denver's Little Russia.

While I may always have a soft spot for the Bagel Deli (see review) with its cramped displays of Jewish deli essentials (Dr. Brown's soda, bagel chips, Halvah and schmaltz), those looking for a wider variety of sundries could do a lot worse than the East Side Kosher Deli. Open for eighteen years and owned by Michael and Marcy Schreiber, this large and well-stocked kosher oasis just north of Mir Park on the outskirts of Leetsdale Boulevard's Little Russia stocks everything from candies and snacks to Hanukkah candles and kosher ramen. There's a bakery, a very busy deli counter (complete with an old-fashioned plastic-number dispenser to keep an orderly flow in front of that counter), a fish department (specializing in lox, natch) and, all the way in the back, the kind of small, add-on restaurant that I haven't seen since my days hanging out at the Woolworth's lunch counter back in Rochester.

There, behind the smoked glass, is a bastion of kosher dining that focuses on deli sandwiches, blintzes, knishes from the bakery, herring salad and chopped liver, sure, but also offers short ribs (beef, of course), fish tacos, fish and chips, Louisiana gumbo, North African lamb stew and "Oriental specialties" like sweet-and-sour chicken and beef stir-fry. But at East Side, I stick with the basics: a cup of tea, toast with margarine (the only time I let that foul stuff cross my lips), maybe a bowl of chicken and matzo ball soup, or eggs scrambled with salami and killer onion-and-pepper home fries. The breakfast menu is fairly standard, the dinner menu large and remarkable mostly for its breadth of influence (taquitos, tongue sandwiches and blackened ahi with wasabi don't often share space on a menu).

This is a strange little restaurant, incredibly friendly, very quiet during most hours of the day and just the spot to satisfy all your Jewish comfort-food cravings — particularly if they're kosher.

 
 
Browse Voice Nation
  • Voice Places

    Voice Places

    Discover restaurants, nightlife, travel, shopping...

  • VOICE Daily Deals

    VOICE Daily Deals

    Get 50 to 90% off every day on restaurants, movies, massages...

  • Best Of

    Best Of...

    More than 10,000 of the BEST things to eat, drink, and experience

  • My Voice Nation

    My Voice Nation

    Join the Village Voice community and get exclusive deals and info

  • Happy Hour

    Happy Hour

    Your local Happy Hour guide at your fingertips

or

Log in or Sign up

Social Connect:

Use your favorite account to access My Voice Nation.


Use your My Voice Nation account to log in:





Forgot password?
or

Sign Up or Log in

Social Connect:

Sign up for My Voice Nation with your preferred network.


Sign up for a My Voice Nation account:



Privacy policy