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Encore Restaurant

Continued from page 2

Published on April 03, 2008

That last burger represents what could be the strangest recycling act at Encore. There's a strain of vaguely Middle Eastern influence running through the menu that seems completely out of place. On the appetizer menu, hummus. Among the sides, couscous with mint and orange vinaigrette. Included in the mains is a mezze platter with falafel, hummus, another grilled artichoke, harissa, couscous and olives, as well as a short-rib entree that's even described as Moroccan, served with still more couscous and golden raisins. To me, the inclusion of Lebanese, Moroccan and Persian classics is more jarring than the dated cedar-plank salmon — because the salmon, at least, seems connected to the grill-heavy and tree-hugging virtue of the recycled cuisine and recycled space that is Encore.

Restaurant recycling is a worthy endeavor when it brings back plates like cedar-plank salmon, real red chile and proper Nor'east clam chowder. But, like anything, it can be taken too far. It's time for Encore to do a little recycling of its own, disposing of the dishes that don't work along with those warped tables. The goofy chef hats can go, too.

But don't touch the fries.

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