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She's got good help, though. Her kitchen crew is solid: James Rugile at exec (ex of Black Pearl and getting his Big Hat shot at just twenty-fucking-four years old), June Grant (also from Black Pearl) as sous, and Katie Doxtater, whom Hartnett met while at Adega, on pastry and the floor when needed. Hartnett herself is always on the floor. Always. Day and night, six of them every week.
Talking about hours is easy. When we try talking about concept and inspiration, though, Hartnett has the same problem describing her style as I did in my review. It ain't New American. It ain't Italian. It ain't Continental. "I never wanted to get pigeonholed into one type of cuisine," she explains, then hems and haws. "I don't know what to say here. We change the menu weekly, all the time, because we get bored. We do everything. We do grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup for lunch. We do chicken. You can come in here for a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, for all I care. We just wanted to be that neighborhood restaurant, you know?"
3609 W. 32nd Ave.
Denver, CO 80211
Region: Northwest Denver
That neighborhood restaurant with perfect bacon grits and beautiful buttered leek risotto and clams with fennel sausage. "That neighborhood restaurant," the way Fruition is "that neighborhood restaurant" or Table 6 is "that neighborhood restaurant," in that they're all restaurants and exist in definable neighborhoods.
Hartnett pauses. "I'm just shocked that we're here," she says.
Leftovers: Speaking of Table 6, it's now doing brunch. And not just any brunch, but a very cool, very appropriate brunch with cheese and fruit plates, breakfast charcuterie (tasso, lamb bacon and duck ham), waffled French toast with Plugra and vanilla ice cream, a Benedict with tasso, crumpets, 147-degree eggs (thank you, Wylie Dufresne) and hollandaise, and a steak sandwich with fromage D'Affinois. In addition, Table 6 is offering Sunday Suppers (the first was on February 8), with a three-course menu for $29 a head and kids under twelve paying their age. Not a bad deal for one of the best restaurants in the city.
A couple of brand-new restaurants have appeared in recent days: Organixx (1520 Blake Street, in the old Egg Shell address) opened its doors on Monday, February 16 — even though when I poked my nose in on Friday afternoon after leaving 8 Rivers, I would've sworn it would never make the promised date. Dave Query's Happy Noodle House (835 Walnut Street in Boulder) made its debut on Friday, February 13, opening (more or less) on schedule; it's serving up a full board of pork gyoza, Happy Ramen, kimchi and fried Brussels sprout leaves. And on the blog, you'll find a story on Katie Mullen's, the enormous Irish pub that went into the former Supreme Court space, at 1550 Court Place. I spent some time inside before it opened on Monday to get a feel for how things were coming together, and I have to confess, I'm thrilled. Not only did the owners call my bluff about serving Irish food (boxty, bangers-and-champ, bacon and cabbage), but they also built themselves one hell of a four-sided bar, with space enough to hold just about every transplanted Mick in the city.
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