By Jamie Swinnerton
By Mark Antonation
By Lori Midson
By Jonathan Shikes
By Amber Taufen
By Cafe Society
By Juliet Wittman
By Jonathan Shikes
I'd walked past twice before figuring out that this unmarked door on Broadway was, in fact, the place where I was going. By the host stand inside that door stood a dapper young gentleman dressed to the nines. Me? Dressed to the fours, at best. "Hour wait," he told me. "Maybe more."
"That's okay," I said, pointing to the bar crowded with beautiful people. "I'll just take a seat at the bar."
"That is for the bar, sir. An hour. Maybe two."
5 E. Ellsworth
Denver, CO 80209
Category: Bars and Clubs
Region: South Denver
See more of Dougherty's at westword.com.
Fuck it. I didn't really want a bowl of turtle soup that badly anyhow. So I said no thanks and headed down the street, where a quick turn sent me straight into Dougherty's. The bar here was full, too, but no one made me wait two hours for a pint of Harp and a shot of Jameson Irish. Also, by this new crowd's standards, I was dressed to the twelves. At least I was wearing pants.
A few months later, I needed a quiet place for a meeting with someone who liked patios, cigarettes and Guinness, and liked them more when he could have them all together. We hit Dougherty's early in the afternoon and parked ourselves at a table under the awning, where we lifted pints and talked and, when we got hungry, ate burgers and hand-cut fries. When the meeting ran long, we moved inside to the bar, where the bottles stood racked to the ceiling and the neighborhood rummies sat hunched over their daily servings. The sun was down before we knew it. We'd killed the better part of a day and had barely felt it pass.
A week after that, my phone rang while I was bouncing between restaurants.
"Where are you?" a friend asked.
"Working," I said. "Where are you?"
"Dougherty's. Come down and have a drink."
I was there in twenty minutes, but this time, I had much more than a drink. I sat at the far end of the bar and put away a plate of grilled, marinated lamb chops. What surprised me wasn't that a place like Dougherty's — a neighborhood joint, tucked just a half-block off the Broadway drag — had a menu, but that it had a real menu. A good menu. I ate with my elbows up on the bar, wedged in among the first shift of evening drinkers.
Wes Ingram, who owns the place with his girlfriend, Tina Ulibarri, came by, working the room, shaking hands — a big, overgrown Irish-American kid with a ready smile and the gait of a bar-room professional, accustomed to navigating tricky landscapes. "You want to move into the dining room, man? You look a bit crowded."
I looked up at him from my bar stool. "You have a dining room?"
Yeah, Dougherty's has a dining room, complete with tablecloths laid with squares of brown butcher's paper and tiny glasses of fresh flowers. It also has a sound system that cycles between the greatest hits of Southern-fried rock, Talking Heads, Iggy Pop and the Grateful Dead doing "Ripple." As well as three antique highchairs and a surprising number of babies.
Yeah, babies. Since opening in October 2007, Dougherty's has hosted two weddings, five baby showers, more birthdays than Ingram can count and some serious parties — for firefighters, for fans of The Big Lebowski. But it truly shows its stripes Tuesday afternoons and Friday nights, at the nothing-special times when the mix of crowds is like a demographer's nightmare: two SoBo crews facing off in the pool room, arguing over what superpower would be the best to have (flying or invisibility, the classic argument); a dining room full of couples and fours and eight-tops running the waitresses ragged; a patio full of dogs; regulars at the bar rolling deep well whiskies between their palms and mentally calculating their tabs hung on the rail above the register; an eighty-year-old couple at the service end drinking pints and sipping soup; and a young woman with her daughter, hoisting the kid up onto the rail so that she can talk with the bartender about getting a tattoo just like Mommy's bright half-sleeve when she's old enough.
"It's a neighborhood pub," Ingram once told me. "We're here for the whole neighborhood." The young and the old, the hip and the square, the firemen and the drunks and industry people (it's surrounded by other bars, other restaurants, all within walking distance — staggering distance post-service on a Saturday night), the families and their dogs. Kid-friendly, pet-friendly, family-friendly, drunk-friendly, with cheap lunches all day and happy-hour specials at the bar. And a real menu.
I was at Dougherty's the night that chef R.J. Van Stockum was adding Irish Leprechaun Lollipops to that menu. Lucky Leprechaun Lollipops. Irish Lollipops. The name had not yet been decided, but the prep had: a wad of Irish cheddar wrapped in prosciutto, cooked and stuck on the end of a breadstick. We demolished two plates of the perfect, pure guilty pleasure of melty cheese wrapped in ham. Nothing good for you about them, but definitely nothing bad, either. I waddled over to Van Stockum on the patio to talk about the lollipops and soon heard about the pea soup he'd been working on all day, laboring over, building up from the basic blocks.