Chili Verde serves nearly perfect Pueblan food

Comments (0) By Jason Sheehan Thursday, Oct 29 2009

I have no doubt that he meant it. I have no doubt that, had I expressed any little distaste, he would've whipped the kitchen into a frenzy, cooking me ten courses, off menu. I knew beyond any doubt that he wanted nothing more than to make sure every single customer got precisely what he wanted and left Chili Verde with nothing but good memories. A man who honestly cared about expressing his love of a culture and a place and his family through the perfect representation of its food.

I don't know if the flautas were good; Laura ate the entire order before I had a chance to taste one.

Andres Yañez and his sons Eder Yañez-Mota and Hanzel Yañez-Mota (left to right) brought the taste of Puebla to Denver at Chili Verde. See more photos here.

Location Info

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Chili Verde

3700 Tejon St.
Denver, CO 80211

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Northwest Denver

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Details

Chili Verde
Ceviche $8
Flautas $8
Posole $9
Shrimp chipotle $12
Shrimp with butter $12
Poblano crepes $10
Chile verde plate $9
Chilaquiles $7

3700 Tejon Street

303-477-1377

Hours: Lunch and dinner Monday-Saturday, closed Sunday.

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But when I returned to Chili Verde on Monday night — sitting in the dining room, alone among the white-clothed tables, amid the polished silver and fluffed napkins — I ordered what I knew would be beyond good. Ceviche, again, and another plate of the poblano crepes. The ceviche was brilliant, as illuminating as that first bite. And the crepes were amazing, with a depth of flavor and balance of savory and sweet that was just as moving and affecting as before, the plate just as ugly.

In the space between courses, in the moments between ordering and receiving, I wished that I was surrounded by fifty customers, all having the same dinner, all tasting for themselves what can come from such care in the kitchen and attention to authenticity. But in a way, I was also glad that I was alone — in a restaurant right on the verge of greatness, in its last moments of quiet, with the kitchen cooking only for me.

See more of Chili Verde at westword.com/slideshow.