A Smokin' Christmas

"People are delighted to have a place to eat on Christmas that isn't a $25 plate of buffet food from a hotel," insists Louis Wolfe, owner and pit master of Wolfe's Barbecue, the sauce-and-ribs joint that he's operated since 1985 at 333 East Colfax Avenue. "It's typically a very good day for us," he says of the parade of regulars, Colfax characters, out-of-towners and day-trip skiers who stop by his shack on December 25 to grub on beef brisket, beef hot links, spare ribs and — wait for it — barbecued tofu.

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More About

• Louis Wolfe
• Colfax
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

"See, it's like this," explains Wolfe. "When we opened, we had all sorts of people helping us, including vegetarians, and when it was all said and done, they just wanted to know what I was going to do for them, so I promised that I'd make a vegan barbecued tofu and that I'd do it right." And he did, smoking the tofu over a pit filled with charcoal. "It's a substantial part of our business, and with our Christmas traffic becoming busier and busier each year, I imagine it'll sell well," he says.

Wolfe's will offer its entire menu from noon to 7 p.m. today, along with good cheer, good conversation and possibly a special or two. "I don't know…" muses Wolfe. "The menu works pretty well as it is, so I probably won't complicate it too much." The most important thing, he concludes, is "making sure that our food puts people in a good mood." Feast on more details at www.wolfesbbq.com or call 303-831-1500.
Fri., Dec. 25, 12-7 p.m., 2009