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Although I love the belly-filling feeling of Queen of Sheba's meat stews, when I ate there with Elissa, we went with the vegetarian sampler. There was more cabbage and potatoes, more spicy red lentils and more smoky chickpeas, as well as atar wott — yellow split peas in a mild, savory stew — and green split peas, earthier and more satisfying. The most surprising dish was a pile of collard greens, spiced up with garlic and berbere, slick without seeming slimy. I enjoyed the way the different legumes played against each other, the distinctions both subtle and striking. And I didn't miss the meat at all.

Obliged to share, eating with my hands and smearing stew across my face, I made some discoveries I might not have found on my own. And Aboye played to that, slipping in new creations and twists, beckoning me deeper into her culinary experiments.

A bottle of Harar beer, made by the Harar Brewery in Hara, Ethiopia. See a full slideshow from Queen of Sheba.
Mark Manger
A bottle of Harar beer, made by the Harar Brewery in Hara, Ethiopia. See a full slideshow from Queen of Sheba.

Location Info

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Queen of Sheba Ethiopian Restaurant

7225 E. Colfax Ave.
Denver, CO 80220

Category: Restaurant > Middle Eastern

Region: East Denver

Details

Queen of Sheba
Queen of Sheba's dinner for two (includes two glasses of wine) $31.99
Vegetarian combo special for two $26.99
Timatim fitfit $6S
Shero wott $8
Tibs $9.99
Yebeg wott $10.99
Fo-ol medemas $5.50
7225 East Colfax Avenue
303-399-9442
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m. Sunday

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A good friend plays to this and pushes you, too. We may not have wanted to feed each other from a tender loving hand, but Elissa used Ethiopian food to push me to the realization that some vegetarian dishes are better than their meaty counterparts. And someday, I hope to use Queen of Sheba to get her to try chicken, beef and lamb.

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