Slightly deflated, I stabbed at my companion's pork schnitzel, a thin slice of pork that had been breaded and fried, then served with a warm potato salad full of tart pickled cabbage and capers. The seasoning of this dish was perfect, and it was delicious paired with a crisp Boulevard Unfiltered Wheat and lemon (which had also been used to deglaze the pan).
Even though those recommended pairings had been successful — the Orville is now off the menu, replaced by Boulevard's See You Later Doppelbock as a suggested mate for the cassoulet — on a return visit, I just decided to order whatever beer interested me on the list. A lot of things looked interesting, and our table was soon filled with glasses. We ordered a round of sandwiches to absorb some of the alcohol. The best was the steak au poivre: thin slices of sirloin topped with sweet caramelized onions, spicy horseradish mayonnaise and a savory, creamy au poivre sauce, stuffed between two halves of a soft, airy roll and served with a pile of pencil-thin crispy fries. Though I wouldn't pit it against versions from traditional barbecue joints, I also liked the whiskey BBQ chicken sandwich, which took shreds of the bird and bathed them in a tangy barbecue sauce, then put them on a baguette and added creamy coleslaw and cheddar cheese, which melted over the warm meat. But the turkey sandwich, served with out-of-season avocado and tomato on a waxy pretzel bun, just didn't fly.
Location Info
Details
Freshcraft
Snack plate $11
Cassoulet $13.50
Schnitzel $13.50
Steak au poivre $9.50
Whiskey BBQ chicken sandwich $8
Fresh pretzel turkey Baja $8.75
1530 Blake Street
303-758-9608
Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m.-midnight Sunday (when the kitchen closes at 10 p.m.)
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To console myself, I drank some more beer.
I know I'll return to Freshcraft, drawn by the prospect of sampling a world-class brew in the company of friends. But dinner will be optional.