I washed dinner down with a Coke — Lawson may have a permanent space for Jabo's, but he doesn't have a liquor license — and, side-splittingly full, promised to come back soon.
A few days later, I returned with a carnivorous friend, and we ate our way through thick slabs of fork-tender beef brisket doused in a thick, fruity mango sauce, and pulled pork in a racy hickory mustard piled on a softball-sized challah bun. We supplemented that feast with fries: beer-battered, hand-cut slices of potato fried extra-crispy, along with slim strips of restaurant-cut sweet potato that were slightly smoky and caramelized and made me think of marshmallows in a cup of hot cocoa. But Jabo's now offers something even sweeter: Utah scones, from a family recipe provided by Lawson's wife, Susan. The airy puffs of bread dough have deep-fried, golden-brown crusts painted with a smear of sticky homemade honey butter.
Mark Manger
Location Info
Details
Jabo's Bar-Be-Q
Sliced beef dinner (with two sides and two scones) $16.50
Rib and link combo dinner (with two sides and two scones) $17.50
Pulled pork sandwich $6.75
Honey-maple baked beans $2.50
Beer-battered French fries $2.50
Sweet-potato fries $3
Utah scone with honey butter $1.50
9682 East Arapahoe Road,
Greenwood Village
303-799-4432
Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday
through Saturday
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"More like a sconut," my friend said after her first bite. Exactly: I could eat these for breakfast, and I wish a bakery existed that made that possible.
Like any person with a proper reverence for the memories of childhood, I still miss that vacant lot. But Jabo Lawson's barbecue lost nothing in the move indoors. And he still makes you feel like there's nothing more important than thoroughly enjoying a meal.
