The beef culotte put chunks of beef a tender cut of loin grilled a juicy and velvety medium rare over what the menu playfully called "potato salad." But this was no mayo-heavy deli-case concoction. Crispy mashed-potato croutons, peppery arugula and smoky bacon strips sat atop a creamy rémoulade and underneath a poached egg, which spilled yolk into the mix. This may have been a play on steak and potato salad, but no picnic food was ever this delicious.
Our dinner ended with s'mores, a deconstructed take on the classic campfire dessert created by Bittersweet's pastry chef, Danielle St. John. She'd pooled chocolate and housemade marshmallow fluff on the plate, added a crumbly housemade chocolate graham cracker, and crowned the dish with strawberries, which added a nice, fruity balance and provided another vehicle for scooping up the decadent sauces. I was too stuffed to even think about ice cream, which was too bad; on an earlier visit, I'd been impressed by a scoop of St. John's strawberry-rhubarb, which sided her strawberry tart. Like the rest of the menu, the ice cream flavors change with the seasons.
Mark Manger
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Bittersweet
Sweetbread Reuben $9
Gazpacho $12
Raviolo $14
Wild boar $26
Beef culotte $26
500 East Alameda Avenue
303-942-0320
Hours: 5 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
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And now here we were, in the heart of summer. We leaned back in our chairs and ordered another bottle of wine, watching the cars pass, hidden in our private garden. The only thing bittersweet about the moment was that it would have to end.
More photos: The Summer Menu at Bittersweet