The standout was the mole negro. Duck breast so succulent and salty it almost tasted like confit swam in a stew of rich chocolate- and cinnamon-imbued mole, augmented by sliced caramelized plantains and earthy figs. It was immensely indulgent, as tantalizingly naughty as El Diablo itself. I wanted to lick the plate. Instead, I studied the massive list of mezcals to find a suitably smoky nightcap.
A few nights later I returned, grabbing a table on the patio as well as a Negra Modelo and more queso. This time I went with the cochinita pibil in entree form. The massive hunk of pork shoulder had been coated in that same achiote sauce, wrapped in a banana leaf and cooked slowly for 24 hours. Cooked a little too long, actually. For the entree, the pickled beans had been replaced with pickled onions, and there weren't enough of them to cut the sauce's intense sweetness. But sweetness worked for the churros that I'd ordered for dessert: The fried dough had been rolled in plenty of cinnamon and sugar, drizzled with chocolate and garnished with vanilla-infused whipped cream.
mark manger
Location Info
Details
El Diablo
Chips and salsa $2
Cazuela de queso fundido $6.95
Tacos (3) $6.95 to $7.95
Tampiqueña $14.95
Molcajete $12.95
Mole negro $14.95
101 Broadway
303-954-0324
Hours: 7 a.m.-4 a.m. daily
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Full and happy, I paid my check quickly before the bar could lure me in for another drink. Because despite any problems I encounter with the food, El Diablo always lures me back.
The devil here really is in the details.
Slide Show: El Diablo photo tour