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The bar was the site of my first meal at Coohills, when I joined friends for a snack and a drink on a lazy Sunday evening. Tended to by a funny and astute bartender eager for our opinions of his whimsical cocktails, we focused on his creations rather than any offerings on the domestic-focused wine list and built a meal out of a few shared plates, which were delivered unceremoniously whenever the kitchen sent them out.

The octopus had been perfectly grilled until it was slightly charred in some places but absolutely tender. Plated with leeks, a shot of acidic Pernod and plenty of garlic butter, it was a great dish. I also liked the salad we'd ordered, which put a crispy, parmesan-crusted egg on top of bitter escarole embedded with bits of crunchy pancetta and drizzled with a Dijon vinaigrette. But the surprise winner was a vegan dish, eggless gnocchi. The soft potato dumplings had been lightly browned in a sauté pan along with bits of carrot, winter squash, broccoli rabe and slices of Brussels sprouts; everything had the sheen of a good, zippy olive oil. Our meal was so good, the setting so comfortable, I could have lingered at Coohills all night long.

The bar will keep keep me coming back to Coohills, where I can sip a new cocktail or try out an appetizer in casual comfort. But the restaurant has also made my list of safe standbys for special-ish occasions, as a place where I can take an out-of-town guest, a business contact or a pair of friends and be guaranteed a nice time. If we're not particularly fussy about our beverages.

Fat chance: Coohills' confit of Brussels sprouts and duck. More photos: In the kitchen at Coohills.
Mark Manger
Fat chance: Coohills' confit of Brussels sprouts and duck. More photos: In the kitchen at Coohills.

Location Info

Map

Coohills

1400 Wewatta St.
Denver, CO 80202

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Downtown Denver

Details

Coohills
Melted flatbread $10
Confit of Brussels sprouts and duck $9
Octopus "a la plancha" $12
Pate $14
Escarole and parmesan-crusted farm egg $9
Braised beef shortribs $26
Duroc bone-in pork ribeye $21
Seared diver scallops $24
Gnocchi $17
1400 Wewatta Street
303-623-5700
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 2:30-10 p.m. Monday through Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday

Photos: In the kitchen at Coohills

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2 comments
Matthewfw
Matthewfw

This was one of the weirdest restaurant reviews I have read.You payed 26 plus dollars for the short rib entree alone and then had to hang up your own coat?? Also just from your pricing that you post seems seem off as short ribs are one of the least expensive cuts and a true duroc pork chop is considerably more per pound, Was this actually true duroc or more of a blend of breeds which is far more common these days,

Was it a rib eye or a pork chop that was over cooked, you make reference to both in this article. ( was this an editorial fact checking boobo) So when you received this piece of shoe leather, was it sent back to be redone, were you comped anything for the severe cooking error?

the service sounds more like a corner diner then fine dining, from the water to the speed of the food coming out.Also you mention the surprise of the eggless gnocci, most gnocci is made with out any egg, so why should it have been a surprise that it was made in this fashion. Usually it is potato and flour and sometimes ricotta but no egg.

 
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