I guess once you cross north of Hamden everyone has their Salmon med-rare not like those rubes in Littleton...
Dining
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Brett Shaheen brings stunning food to the Wooden Table
Slide show: In the kitchen at The Wooden Table
We sipped our wine while the server whisked away the remnants of the first course and reset the table for our entrees, which arrived just a few minutes later. My favorite was the scallops: three fat mollusks, seared around the edges, on top of what the menu termed "baccala chowder" — really a thick, salt-cod-stuffed stew — and served with "celery root and potato roesti." No matter what you called them, the components worked well together; the hash browns provided a nice crunch, and the chowder's salty base was a good complement to the sweet scallops.
Our other mains were almost too balanced, if that's possible. The black cod, which flaked away from the skin into moist chunks, came atop an earthy cauliflower purée and sided with a "crispy shrimp and scallop quenelle" that was reminiscent of the filling in shrimp dumplings at a dim sum joint. The duck breast was roasted a juicy medium-rare and served on a sweet-potato purée with butter-poached Brussels sprouts. While I appreciated the immaculate care that Shaheen had put into these plates, no single flavor stood out. Nor did the dishes themselves.
Mark Manger
The Wooden Table's black cod on an earthy cauliflower purée. Slide show: In the kitchen at The Wooden Table.
Location Info
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The Wooden Table
2500 E. Orchard Ave.
Greenwood Village, CO 80121
Category: Restaurant > Italian
Region: Southeast Denver Suburbs
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Details
The Wooden Table
Agnolotti (lunch) $13
Grinder $11
Mozzarella $10
Eggplant parmesan rolotini $11
Gnocchi (half) $15
Black cod $29
Scallops $26
Duck $25
Agnolotti (lunch) $13
Grinder $11
Mozzarella $10
Eggplant parmesan rolotini $11
Gnocchi (half) $15
Black cod $29
Scallops $26
Duck $25
2500 East Orchard Road, Greenwood Village
303-730-2152
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
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We finished dinner with coffee and the seasonal dessert, that night a crusty apple tart topped with a scoop of cinnamon gelato, another exemplary exhibition of refined technique and deeply nuanced — and balanced — flavor. "Is the coffee hot enough?" our server asked as she delivered complimentary drams of housemade limoncello with our check. "We normally don't have people ordering regular at this time of night. You're kind of the young crowd."
But old enough to recognize that the ladies who lunch (and dinner) are on to something at the Wooden Table.
Slide show: In the kitchen at The Wooden Table
7 comments
"At dinner, the crowd didn't look significantly different than it had at noon, though there were a few more men in the room." Well, thank god. I always make sure to take a peek under the tablecloths before ordering.....sheesh.
"Off-brand organic grocery store?" It's crap like this that just makes me stop reading and really question your food cred and knowledge of this town.
Wow, didn't realize that sentiment would be so off-putting -- that was simply meant to bring light to the eclectic-ness of the strip mall; instead of a Whole Foods or Wild Oats or Sunflower, there's an organic grocery store without a brand name. I've been to it. Many times. I grew up in that 'hood, and my family still lives there. Perhaps "independent" would have been less controversial.
I went to high school nearby as well and have seen this spot go through all the permutations of the natural food scene before Whole Foods eventually bought Wild Oats and decided that location was not profitable enough. The current tenant - Two Mile Ranch Market - is probably one of the best sources of local dry-aged beef in town and was mentioned by the chef of the Wooden Table in a previous Westword article. They also have a produce section that actually smells like fresh produce and a growing representation of Colorado cured meats and cheeses. I know it's not your job to promote local businesses, but I think they deserve a little better than an off-handed remark intended to paint the entire shopping center as a quirky, run-down, eclectic haunt of the bored and affluent. It would be just as easy to dismiss the Wooden Table simply because they don't have name recognition. I'm hoping for writing that shatters rather than indulges in cliches.
At least she's equal opportunity..."middle aged ladies who lunch" seem to be just as off-putting to her as the "off brand" (?) organic grocery store...
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