My brain started working immediately, delighting in how the gummy texture of the hominy played off the crisp strands of cabbage. From the broth heavy with pork fat, I managed to pick out the garlic before the heat of the cumin and chiles begin to build on the back of my palate. And then, as it had with the mole, my brain shut down. Everything rolled together, each mouthful supremely complex and utterly simple. I sucked up every drop, tuning out the Spanish-language soap opera playing on the TV above the front door, the stream of cars on Federal beyond the parking lot, the Spanish chatter of my server and the cook, who had no one else to attend to. It was an almost out-of-body experience, except that my body was the beneficiary of all this magical goodness that fed the soul as much as the stomach.
I finally came to when my server brought my check, along with a ceramic bowl full of lollipops. I didn't take one, though. I wasn't quite ready to break the spell of Tarasco's.
470 S. Federal Blvd.
Denver, CO 80219
Category: Restaurant > Latin American
Region: Southwest Denver
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My wife and I are on a constant search for good mole. We saw this review, jumped in the car, and tried both the 7 chile and verde moles. Not only were the moles by far the best we've had in CO (and the US), but the proprietor was incredibly friendly and welcoming. This is now at the top of our favorite Mexican restaurants.
My girlfriends stepdad owns this restaurant. I'm glad it's finally getting coverage. The carnitas are delicious.
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