Mark Manger
Sass at Sassafras: Fried green tomato sandwich, fried green tomato Benedict, and shrimp and grits.
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See also: Slide show: Sassafras American Eatery
Sassafras American Eatery
Chunky monkey bread $4
Grit fries $5
Biscuits and gravies $6
Breakfast sliders 1 for $4,3 for $10
Buttermilk pecan griddle cakes $7
French toast $8
Gumbo $3/cup
Fried green tomato Benedict $9
Chicken-fried eggs $12
Shrimp and grits $12
Jambalaya $12
Fried chicken $12
Smoked BBQ plate $13
Milkshakes $4.50
Pie $5
2637 West 26th Avenue
303-433-0080
Hours: 6:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 8 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday
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If you've left room for dessert — and that's a big if — you'll have a hard time choosing between a thick milkshake (there are twenty flavors, including Twinkie, salted chocolate pretzel and gingersnap) and one of the flaky-crusted pies, perhaps peach, sweet potato or coconut cream. Just don't get your heart set on a particular one, as the pie selection changes daily.
While the menu is impressive, the execution often is not. Prior to working at Sassafras, Mallet served as executive chef at Breakfast on Broadway and sous chef at Beatrice & Woodsley; co-owner Julia Grother is also no stranger to the restaurant industry, with nearly fifteen years under her belt, nine of those as manager. So it's surprising that the kitchen is so inconsistent. Pancakes, French toast and cornbread come out burned on one side, blackened surface hidden plate-down. Gumbo lacks protein, and the ubiquitous Hollandaise cries out for salt and lemon. Service can be slow, making it hard to eat and get back to the office. And even the takeout menu shows signs of distraction, with typos such as "Frech toast" and "counrty breakfast." Such mistakes are unfortunate, because there's much about Sassafras (biscuits! fried green tomatoes! fried chicken!) that should appeal to belles and non-belles alike. Even if collards and filé powder don't.
