Mark Manger
Sussette and Enrique Rosell work on an asere sandwich at La Guarida Cubana.
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See also: Photos: A Family Affair at La Guarida Cubana
Coffee and milk $3.75
Cuban toast $1.50
Chicken empanada $3.25
Habanero soup $3.95
Ham croquettes $1.50
Cuban $7.75
Midnight $7.75
Asere $9.75
Rice with chicken $5.50
Ropa vieja $7.75
Combo #2 (pork) $14.99
Moro rice $4.50
Maduros $4.50
Mariquitas $4.50
Guava pastry $1.95
5922 East Colfax Avenue
720-328-6521
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday
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Which leads to an important, if somewhat obvious, point: Just because Mom — your mom, my mom, Sussette's mom — makes something from an authentic recipe, that doesn't mean it's good. La Guarida's habanero soup, mixed vegetables in either beef or chicken stock, needs degreasing and a finer sieve to remove small bones. Chicken empanadas need something, anything, in the filling besides chunks of bland white meat. Rice needs to be fully cooked, and so does cassava when it appears as a side. On one visit, my Cuban toast with butter arrived as garlic toast, not quite the breakfast I had in mind. With mistakes such as these, it's clear that La Guarida Cubana needs to pay more attention to the craft of cooking before a meal here is a masterpiece.
And yet when you walk through the doors, you still sense that art is happening. It's the art of a family serving authentic Cuban fare that's made, as Lissette says, with love, a love that's never lost in translation. And sometimes — not always, not on date nights or big birthdays or when you're meeting friends for dinner — that's enough.