Sussette and Enrique Rosell work on an asere sandwich at La Guarida Cubana.
Mark Manger
Sussette and Enrique Rosell work on an asere sandwich at La Guarida Cubana.

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La Guarida Cubana

5922 E. Colfax Ave.
Denver, CO 80220

Category: Restaurant > African

Region: East Denver

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See also: Photos: A Family Affair at La Guarida Cubana

Coffee and milk $3.75
Cuban toast $1.50
Chicken empanada $3.25
Habanero soup $3.95
Ham croquettes $1.50
Cuban $7.75
Midnight $7.75
Asere $9.75
Rice with chicken $5.50
Ropa vieja $7.75
Combo #2 (pork) $14.99
Moro rice $4.50
Maduros $4.50
Mariquitas $4.50
Guava pastry $1.95
5922 East Colfax Avenue
720-328-6521
Hours: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday

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Which leads to an important, if somewhat obvious, point: Just because Mom — your mom, my mom, Sussette's mom — makes something from an authentic recipe, that doesn't mean it's good. La Guarida's habanero soup, mixed vegetables in either beef or chicken stock, needs degreasing and a finer sieve to remove small bones. Chicken empanadas need something, anything, in the filling besides chunks of bland white meat. Rice needs to be fully cooked, and so does cassava when it appears as a side. On one visit, my Cuban toast with butter arrived as garlic toast, not quite the breakfast I had in mind. With mistakes such as these, it's clear that La Guarida Cubana needs to pay more attention to the craft of cooking before a meal here is a masterpiece.

And yet when you walk through the doors, you still sense that art is happening. It's the art of a family serving authentic Cuban fare that's made, as Lissette says, with love, a love that's never lost in translation. And sometimes — not always, not on date nights or big birthdays or when you're meeting friends for dinner — that's enough.

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7 comments
plcdef
plcdef

As the review says, just because you follow a family recipe doesn't make it good.  I found nothing good here and wanted to since it was in my neighborhood.  Service was non existent, food was plain bad and $30 for 2 people to eat in a neighborhood place.  I hope for their sake it gets better

tcabeen
tcabeen

@daisycakes @DenverWestword @paluchador I love how that’s written though. Sweet, but honest assessment of the food.

daisycakes
daisycakes

@tcabeen @DenverWestword @paluchador Just looked at all the pictures and now I am SO HUNGRY.

tcabeen
tcabeen

@daisycakes @paluchador The English threw me. “I’d like a midnight and a coffee and milk, please.” So, so white. :)

paluchador
paluchador

@daisycakes want.

daisycakes
daisycakes

@paluchador mixed review, but worth a try. Near my house. Passed by it a few times & wondered.

ybarcewski
ybarcewski

Nice writing to describe a meal that was less than stellar. It should lessen the pain.

 
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