None of the sides are standouts. Hot German potato salad (a lunch-only side) is so un-vinegary that it could almost pass for the boiled potatoes, another option. Spätzle, those delightful egg noodles you'd associate with your grandmother if she were German (or Polish, like mine), would benefit from more time in the pan to evaporate the water. German-fried potatoes, with morsels of Yukon golds browned with onions, are woefully under-seasoned and good for little more than soaking up sauce. (Given how many sauces are on the menu — cream, paprika cream, mushroom cream, sour cream, etc. — it's a safe bet that at least one entree at the table is drenched in one.) And the sauerkraut and red cabbage are sweeter than most desserts.
A better choice for that last course is the whipped-cream-topped apple strudel. Made in-house (the only dessert that is), this traditional pastry features a nicely tart filling and tender crust. But it's not sweet enough to erase the sour disappointment left by a meal at Cafe Berlin.
Mark Manger
Cafe Berlin is now in its third home in seventeen years.
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Cafe Berlin
Herring $6.95
Potato pancakes $4
Tomato salad $3.50
Gurkensalat $3.50
Split-pea soup $3.50
Currywurst $8.95
Wiener schnitzel (lunch) $10.95
Jägerschnitzel $18.95
Kohlrouladen $13.95
Rouladen $19.95
Apple strudel $5.25
1600 Champa Street
303-377-5896
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday; 4-10 p.m. Saturday; 4-8 p.m. Sunday
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Next time I'm nostalgic for the '90s, I'll skip the schnitzel, stuffed cabbage and tomato salad. Instead, I'll buy some truffle oil and brush up on the Macarena.