Makan Malaysian Cafe could turn you into a roti rooter

Mark Manger

Karen Beckman prepares dishes from her native country at Makan Malaysian Cafe.

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Makan Malaysian Cafe

1859 S. Pearl St.
Denver, CO 80210

Category: Restaurant > Mediterranean

Region: South Denver

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Photos: Inside Makan Malaysian Cafe

Makan Malaysian Cafe
Curry puffs $4.50
Siu mai $3.75
Beef or chickensatay (4) $6.95
Popiah $4.50
Mee siam $10.95
Roti prata/canai $6.95
Sambal kangkung $9.95
Curry chicken $11.95
Beef rendang $12.95
Dhal $2.50
Coconut rice $2
Nasi lemak $9.95
Kaya toast $4.95
Teh tarik $3

1859 South Pearl Street

720-524-8093

www.makanmyfood.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Wednesday-Friday; 8 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Saturday-Sunday

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More About

• Corey Beckman
• Lon Symensma
• Wheaties
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

If you want it in the morning, come on a weekend, when breakfast is served until 11 a.m. Just make sure you bring a friend, so that one of you can try the nasi lemak and the other can order the kaya toast. Having loved this dish at ChoLon, chef Lon Symensma's upscale ode to Asian cuisine, I was surprised to learn that the sweet, custard-like coconut jam — which gets slathered on two pieces of white toast — is supposed to be kept separate from the accompanying bowl of soft-boiled egg. "Toast is a middleman so the two don't mix," explains Beckman. Sprinkle the egg with white pepper and soy sauce, savor the sweetness of the jam, and ask yourself whether Wheaties or kaya toast is the breakfast of champions. (I know what my vote is.) Teh tarik, a tall glass of frothy, milky tea, is very good but very sweet; unless you're from the South and grew up on sweet tea, you might prefer a cup of strong, Aussie-style coffee instead. Speaking of beverages, Makan does not yet have a liquor license, though the application should be in soon.

For such an underrepresented cuisine, Makan's menu feels oddly familiar. According to Beckman, that's because Malaysian cuisine represents a "blend of so many different ethnicities," including Malay, Chinese, Indian, Portuguese, British and Dutch. As a result, she says, there's "a big mesh of food." Not to mention a big bang for your buck when you're trying to revive those slumbering tastebuds.