Newer entrees tend to be an offer you can — and probably should — refuse. Mushroom ravioli are served with sliced oyster mushrooms in a bowl of brown liquid that tastes more like water than parmesan-porcini broth. Pan-seared lemon fish tempts with a great sear but lacks brightness (the lemon refers to the fish's type, not citrus), and the accompanying tomato risotto is heavy and wet. A pork chop — billed as "chops," plural — promises loads of flavor, but the half-teaspoon of orange gremolata (a mix of parsley, garlic and orange zest) can't begin to cover the hefty chop. Broccoli rabe, served on the plate with fried red potatoes, waffles between woefully over- and under-salted.
Ramirez, who inherited the menu and is still working out kinks in execution, recognizes its shortcomings, some of which — like the formerly inauthentic but now delicious tiramisu — he's already addressed. "Most of the time people are looking for pasta or traditional dishes like chicken piccata or chicken marsala," he admits, adding that he's asked corporate for a green light to restore some of these items.
mark manger
Chef Daniel Ramirez in the kitchen at the revamped Gaetano's.
Location Info
Details
Gaetano's
Risotto croquettes $5
Polpette in tomato sauce $6
Gaetano's Caesar
Photos: Behind the Scenes at Gaetano's
$6
Gorgonzola flatbread $8
Gnocchi with brown butter $7
Wild-mushroomravioli $13
Chicken parmigiana $16
Pan-seared lemon fish $16
Lasagna $13
Pork chops $18
Tiramisu $6
3760 Tejon Street
303-455-9852
Hours: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. daily; 5-10 p.m. Monday to Thursday; 5-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; 5-9 p.m. Sunday
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In the meantime, this onetime architecture student — who switched directions and spent his culinary career in Italian restaurants across the West and in Rome — is doing his best to keep customers happy. He serves longtime favorites such as the "half and half" — spaghetti and ravioli with either a meatball or sausage — as a lunch special and goes so far as to buy ingredients and invite guests back another night when they request something he can't make with what's on hand. He's also trying to care for his staff, insisting that the morning crew sit down together for a family meal, as was the custom in Rome.
With the heart of an Italian grandmother and the skills of a trained chef, Ramirez seems to have what it takes to bring Gaetano's food on par with the decor. And with time, who knows? He just might settle the score with Lou's.
