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You will need every one of these anti-inflammatories after braving spectacularly underestimated waits and high noise levels (what else to expect from a place that does 1,500 covers on a Saturday?). You might even need something more, as I did the time I endured a tot jumping on the banquette next to me and a dad who vainly urged, "Eat your num-nums!" For those nights, you might find that a pomegranate mojito reduces inflammation a little better than juiced kale.

When all is said and done, though, when glasses are empty and almond olive-oil cakes and vegan dark-chocolate puddings have been cleared, you will surely have noticed a difference between this and other restaurants. You still might not know about Dr. Weil's pyramid, but you will have eaten enough of it to realize that so-called health food — kale, tempeh, sea buckthorn, etc. — makes for a satisfying meal. You might not understand why the food has left you full but not uncomfortable, as a friend said, though if you're paying attention, you'll notice the lack of a fryer and the almost complete absence of butter and cream. You might come away wanting to visit Thai Flavor or Pinche Taqueria or Pizzeria Locale for more authentic versions of what you ate, but that's okay. There's room for all sorts of restaurants in the world — and we definitely don't have enough of the thoughtfully healthy kind.

The edamame dumplings at True Food Kitchen are truly delicious. See also: A Closer Look at True Food Kitchen
mark manger
The edamame dumplings at True Food Kitchen are truly delicious. See also: A Closer Look at True Food Kitchen

Location Info

Map

True Food Kitchen

2800 E. 2nd Ave.
Denver, CO 80206

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Central Denver

Details

See also: A Closer Look at True Food Kitchen

True Food Kitchen
Kale-Aid $6
Herb hummus $9
Caramelized onion tart $10
Edamame dumplings $9
Steelhead salmon $24
Panang curry with tofu $14
Street tacos $16
Shirataki noodles $13
Bison burger $16
TLT $12
Butternut squash pizza $12
Salads $8-$12
Almond olive-oil cake $7
Chocolate pudding $7

For more photos of True Food Kitchen, go to cafesocietyblog.com. E-mail the author at gretchen.kurtz@westword.com.

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1 comments
Mantonat
Mantonat topcommenter

Thanks for the smart and witty review, Gretchen. I actually laughed out loud at the idea of having to self-medicate with booze to be able to tolerate the less subtle aspects of dietary trends and the people who flock to them. I'm also glad that you chose this restaurant to write about, so that I will know to absolutely avoid it at all costs. Certainly, America's health issues stem in large part from our poor food choices (in addition to sedentary lilfestyles), but when I dine out the last thing I want to think about, or be reminded of, or feel superior about, are my dining habits. 


I firmly believe in sustainable and humane agricultural practices. I believe that the industrial agriculture system - and our government's subsidization of it - have caused imbalances in pricing that have lead to nutirent-poor and toxin-rich processed foods becoming staples in America's kitchens and dining rooms. But I don't believe that demonizing certain kinds of foods - like pork and beef - is the solution. Pasture raised, organic beef and pork are every bit as healthy as bison, including the fatty bits and organs. Cooking with butter, lard, and cream from properly raised animals is probably more healthful than cooking with heavily processed seed oils. But, I worry about this stuff when I shop and when I cook at home, which is the majority of the time.  When I go out to eat, I don't want to have to choose from dishes that someone else has decided is healthy for me. And I certainly don't want what sounds like nothing more than a Cheesecake Factory for the yoga pants set. Now pass the kale - I'll take mine fried in coconut oil or lard, please.

 
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