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The confusion doesn't end there. Does Corner House really want to honor all things local and seasonal, as its "seasonally inspired" menu says it does in a lengthy paragraph praising "our bountiful state and the men and women cultivating" its products? This month, the jack-of-all-seasons menu is rife with watermelon, butternut squash and cauliflower, more in keeping with summer or fall than spring, and twice when I inquired about the seasonal soup, I was told it was seafood, not made with the asparagus, peas, greens or ramps I would've expected. Or does Corner House want to be known for small plates, sharing a niche that the Populist has carved out for itself? If so, the balance between hot and cold, small and sufficient needs to be more carefully addressed.

The chocolate bread pudding. See also: A closer look at Corner House
Mark Manger
The chocolate bread pudding. See also: A closer look at Corner House
The grilled avocado salad. See also: A closer look at Corner House
Mark Manger
The grilled avocado salad. See also: A closer look at Corner House

Location Info

Map

Corner House

2240 Clay St.
Denver, CO 80211

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Northwest Denver

Details

Corner House
Tuna poke $14
House salad $5
Grilled avocado salad $9
PEI mussels $10
Chili-braised short rib $15
Foie gras $15
Rillettes $12
Grilled polenta $10
Chocolate bread pudding $7
Chai panna cotta $8
2240 Clay Street
720-287-1895
Hours: 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-midnight Friday; 9 a.m.-midnight Saturday; 9 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday

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Still, in all this ambiguity, one thing remains clear: Selby is a sophisticated chef with the skills to make Corner House a place we'd want to call home, even if home is far from Jefferson Park. Right now, however, it's just not clear what kind of home it would like to be.

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3 comments
chuckroast
chuckroast

Great review, I appreciate your candid comments.

 
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