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Not every dish seems suited for Sunday dinner in another era, though. A goat-cheese croquette comes nestled in a bright pool of lemony beurre blanc. Grilled salmon over jasmine rice is accented with a wasabi cream sauce. Duck confit snuggles next to roasted potatoes glistening with duck fat. Admittedly, some plates work better than others: The salmon, for example, is far more interesting than the duck, dragged down as it is by an orange gastrique that crosses the line into candy.

Then there's the grilled shrimp, an appetizer with entree aspirations. Seasoned with paprika and herbs, the crustaceans play ring-around-the-rosy, falling down around fried polenta and a Momofuku-inspired sauce of ginger, scallions and soy sauce. Perfect with a salad (perhaps the arugula, thoughtfully tossed with just enough almonds, apricots, goat cheese and dressing) and a slice of Olderman's standout coconut cream pie, the dish makes a perfect meal, and explains the restaurant's success even better than the comfort food it's known for. "Our whole philosophy is to serve what we like to eat," says Olderman.

Location Info

Map

Bang!

3472 W. 32nd Ave.
Denver, CO 80211

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Northwest Denver

Details

bang!
Sweet-potato bread $4
Croquette $7
Grilled shrimp $8
Arugula $7
Grilled salmon $15
Fried chicken breast $14
Meatloaf $14
Duck confit $14
Gingerbread $7
Coconut cream pie $7
3472 West 32nd Avenue
303-455-1117
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Friday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday

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Bang! may not be up with the times, but in a way that's what makes it timeless, serving affordable, unpretentious fare that the owners and nearly two decades of patrons still like to eat.

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2 comments
bondadprevalece
bondadprevalece topcommenter

The headline to this article always bothered me and I didn't really think about it. Then I finally realized - only in Denver would people not understand that comfort food SHOULD be affordable, and certainly more affordable than bang!. We need to stop giving so many congrats to restaurants for managing to keep their prices under $30 a plate, come on.

falafelfive
falafelfive

Great spot, great food, nicest people I have ever met.


 
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