For those, however, who believe that no ice climb is complete without multiple shots of Single Malt and the chance to have an epic by getting caught in a storm miles from your car, there is a solution: Rocky Mountain National Park.
Ice climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park is defined by long approaches and often brutal conditions. Even the routes that have short approaches take an hour or more to get to. Combine that with winds that would make Boreas green with envy, and frigid temperatures that seem to have their own zip code, and you get an ice climbing area that is not for people who want their climbing day to be defined by getting down in time for Happy Hour and shots of Jager.
RMNP has a wide variety of climbs, from (almost) easy walk-ups to technically demanding mixed desperates. For those seeking moderate routes, here is a top five ticklist of moderate routes (WI3-WI4).
1. Hidden Falls (WI3+/WI4-)
This climb, accessed from the Wild Basin
trailhead, has probably the shortest approach in Rocky Mountain
National Park. It takes about 40 minutes to get to the climb. Park at
the Wild Basin trailhead on CO 7, hike for about a mile past the sign
for Upper and Lower Copeland Falls, then look off to the left for the
climb. Cross the stream and follow a climber's trail, or bushwack, to
the base of the route. The climb is about 75 feet high, and ends at a
convenient tree anchor. It's possible to set up a top rope by going off
to the left and groveling up a slope, then cutting back to the top of
the route. This climb is popular on weekends, and some stupid climbers
have tried to put two parties on the route, a recipe for disaster.
2. All Mixed Up (WI4)
Long,
grueling approach? Check. Often thin, difficult to protect ice? Check!
Avalanche danger on the descent? Check!! Welcome to All Mixed Up, a
route that can form thick and plastic, but which is often thin and
difficult to protect. The approach alone is so brutal it can make you
long for sunny rock climbing. From the Glacier Gorge trailhead, hike to
Mills Lake and continue to the end of the lake. In early season, this
is on trail, but by mid-winter, you can ski this portion. From the far
end of the lake, grovel up through the trees to the base of the climb.
Allow two hours, possibly three, depending on snow conditions. The
climb itself can be done in two long 60 meter pitches, but most parties
take three or four shorter pitches. Depending on conditions, the crux
can be the second pitch or the last one. Descend off to climber's left,
although it the snow is avalanche prone, it is better to rappel the
route. Watch out for climbers below you on this popular route; though
the lower pitches are a football field wide and offer many
possibilities, they all funnel to the final pitch.
3. Grace Falls (WI4)
A
super classic route below the north face of Notchtop, Grace Falls forms
wildly differently every year. In good ice years, the climb can be wide
and offer a lot of possibilities. In bad years, it can be thin and
exceedingly difficult. The route is 100-120 feet high, depending on
snow depth at the base. Park your car at Bear Lake and hike/ski the
trail towards Notchtop, heading off the trail to the left before it
heads down into Odessa Gorge. Stay right of Lake Helene and find the
base of the climb. In a storm, if you haven't been there before, it can
be difficult to find (I got lost on this approach once). Allow 2-3
hours for the approach.
4. North Face Notchtop (WI3, 5.7)
Probably
the classic moderate mixed testpiece, the North Face of Notchtop is
also, unfortunately, prone to avalanches, so pay careful attention to
the snow conditions before venturing up, unless you are looking for
column fodder! Park at the Bear Lake trailhead and hike/ski the trail
towards Notchtop. Continue past Grace Falls to a gully below the huge
North Face and follow it up past a snowfield to the base of the route.
The climb itself is four pitches long, and consists mainly of ice steps
with snow in between. It can have some rock sections. From the
ridgeline at the top, head west along the ridge to the descent gully.
5. Alexander's Chimney (WI4, 5.5/M4)
Located
on the Lower East Face of Long's Peak below the jaw-dropping Diamond
Face, Alexander's Chimney is a must do route. First climbed as a rock
route, the Chimney is an unpleasant outing in the summer; wait till the
fall and do it as an ice climb. Park at the Long's Peak Ranger Station
and follow the trail to Chasm Lake, then take the Chasm-Cut Off to the
base of the East Face. Start up Lamb's Slide, the obvious snow gully,
to the base of the Chimney. Allow about four hours for the approach.
The crux is on the third pitch, going under a chockstone and thin,
mixed terrain above it. Either rap the route or hike left on the
Broadway ledge to the top of Lamb's Slide and descend it to Chasm Lake.
Bring rock gear.
