2 days ago | Second Helpings
Not long ago, foie gras was out. Not out like carbs were out in the ‘90s or gluten is out right now, but way out. So far out that chefs stopped putting it on menus for fear of being bad guys by association. How times have changed — in large p...
3 days ago | Restaurant Reviews
Michael Shiell created quite a stir when he picked the name for the restaurant that would mark his return to Denver after a three-year hiatus: It would be called Milk & Honey, after a biblical phrase synonymous with good times. It might have b...
9 days ago | Second Helpings
Last week I started a conversation about the rules of restaurant criticism — or rather, the modern-day lack thereof. Some guidelines remain in effect: Professional critics should not accept free food, for example. Others are increasingly optional,...
10 days ago | Restaurant Reviews
The story of Onefold is not a cautionary tale. There are no lurking dangers from which to learn, no pitfalls trapping overextended chefs, no overwrought concepts so common in the restaurant industry. Instead, this humble eatery with its simple dec...
16 days ago | Second Helpings
For years, there were hard-and-fast rules about restaurant criticism. Critics shall remain anonymous. Critics shall not accept free food. Critics shall eat more than one meal before forming an opinion, and won’t have said meals until the restauran...
17 days ago | Restaurant Reviews
”Do you want to be as close to or as far away from the music as possible?” asked the hostess at Baur’s Restaurant and Listening Lounge, which opened last spring in the former downtown home of Le Grand Bistro & Oyster Bar. There was a band comi...