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1998 Stories by Kyle Wagner

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  • Course Correction

    published December 31, 1998

    In 1998, the face of Denver dining changed from the wizened old visage of the familiar to the crazed, cash-hungry smirk of the young upstarts.... More >>

  • On Solid Grounds

    published December 24, 1998

    As the singing Christmas tree next to the cash register slogs through its third rendition of "Jingle Bells," Robbin O'Donley stops pouring coffee... More >>

  • A Gift for You

    published December 24, 1998

    Walking into Paul's Creekside Grill at the Inn at Silver Creek was a little like opening a gift wrapped in the funny pages and tied with a... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published December 24, 1998

    Soup's on: There may not be much snow up in them thar hills, but things are still cookin' at Silver Creek Ski Resort--and they'll continue to as... More >>

  • Call Me Madam

    published December 17, 1998

    A century ago, Mattie Silks was Denver's most notorious madam. And so I approached my first meal at the restaurant that occupies her expensively... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published December 17, 1998

    Noodlin' around: One indicator of an excellent chef is his ability to take simple ingredients and combine them in a way that makes the most of... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published December 10, 1998

    Someone's in the kitchen with Dinah: The food served on the Great Northern Railway was very different from the food served at its namesake in... More >>

  • Train in Vain

    published December 10, 1998

    Have a successful eatery? Hey, open another one. No matter that you can't clone the location, the chef or the waitstaff, much less yourself. If... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published December 3, 1998

    Made in America: The Manor House (reviewed above) would be wise to skip the fusion and instead focus on classic American cooking--and I'm not... More >>

  • Mind Your Manors

    published December 3, 1998

    At a place named The Manor House, you expect to eat something grand. Especially when the restaurant is housed in a true manor house, a 1914... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published November 26, 1998

    Say cheese: If there's a food in the world that I love more than cheese, I don't know what it could be. Yes, foie gras is fabulous and... More >>

  • Stress for Excess

    published November 26, 1998

    I'm now at the point where I let food magazines--Saveur, Food & Wine, Gourmet--pile up in the corner, unopened. Because if I grab one and start... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published November 19, 1998

    Chicken feed: One of my favorite dishes at Pagliacci's was the chicken cacciatore. Alla cacciatora means "cooked in the hunter's style"; in the... More >>

  • Red Alert

    published November 19, 1998

    More than fifty years ago, Sicilian immigrant Frank Grandinetti opened Pagliacci's in what was then an Italian neighborhood in northwest Denver.... More >>

  • Sam Time, Next Year

    published November 12, 1998

    The food chain that matters is not about who's eating whom, but who's cooking what--and where. The right chef, one with training and firsthand... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published November 12, 1998

    Pan-fried Asian: Getting a recipe from Isamu "Sam" Furuichi, who has taken over the kitchen at Samurai (see review above), turned out to be a... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published November 5, 1998

    What's cooking: The best cooking schools don't just teach you how to cook; they teach you what to cook. They expose you to new recipes--recipes... More >>

  • A Stirring Experience

    published November 5, 1998

    It was a little like a triple-bypass operation performed by third-graders using foot-long scissors. But teaching a knife-skills class to a... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published October 29, 1998

    Chile weather: Since the Wynkoop Brewing Co. opened at 1634 18th Street ten years ago this month, Colorado's microbrewery business has boomed to... More >>

  • Paradise Lost

    published October 29, 1998

    I'm still in a daze over Heavenly Daze, Denver's latest brewpub, and it's not because my meals there were a slice of heaven. No, I'm dazed and... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published October 22, 1998

    Noodling around: If the only carbonara you've tried has involved ham and peas, Theo Roe's Dazzle recipe is sure to do just that. One indisputable... More >>

  • Shine On

    published October 22, 1998

    I first encountered Theo Roe's cooking at Pinots, a restaurant that seemed to have everything going for it, not the least of which was a talented... More >>

  • Mouthing Off

    published October 15, 1998

    When the kitchen cooperates, 29 Mile Cantina (reviewed above) puts out some tasty fare, especially the Santa Monica chicken, which co-owner Laura... More >>

  • Another Roadside Attraction

    published October 15, 1998

    So I was all, where's my food? And the server was all, it's totally coming soon, and I was all, well, it had better get here or I'm walking out,... More >>

  • Soy Long

    published October 8, 1998

    Since Japan has been infested with American fast-food chains since the late Sixties, it's only fair that we'd get a few Japanese fast-food outlets... More >>

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