Best French Fries (2001)


The "Shoestrings and Romesco" tapas offering at Triana, a snazzy restaurant named for a barrio in Spain, sounds more like a singing group than the area's most fabulous French fries. And, in fact, these are actually Spanish fries: long, thin-cut, skin-on potatoes that have been deep-fried and then liberally sprinkled with salt and -- get this -- sugar, so that the sugar caramelizes just slightly and both heightens and is heightened by the salt. Served in a paper cone set jauntily in a wire hanger, the fries also come with a small ramekin of romesco, a Spanish dipping sauce made from almonds and roasted red peppers. But these spuds don't really need any augmentation: They sing all on their own.


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