The most notable wine lists are crafted by serious grape geeks who determinedly seek diversity, deftly compiling syllabi that feature both esoteric and safe choices and offer value in every price range. When Bob Blair, chef and owner of Fuel Cafe, introduced his vino roster in 2008 — the year Fuel opened — it was short, crisp, and perfectly fine, but over the years, that scroll has grown into an unbelievably impressive and fascinating global selection, stamped with beautifully chosen bottles that represent a swell of grape types: riesling and gewürztraminer, muscadet and malbec, syrah and pinot noir, carménère and carignan, and gamay — and that's the abbreviated version. For a restaurant that excels in the kitchen, it's only fitting that there should be a wine list to match. Fuel uncorks funky but approachable surprises and delights from interesting producers — and nothing is poured with pretense or contempt.