Lunch doesn't have to be the time to fill your moaning stomach with mediocre, artery-clogging food designed to fortify you for the horrors ahead (or kill you before you return to the boardroom). It can be a time to retreat, to return to simpler times and simpler pleasures. After all, that's what chef Kevin O'Brien did when he closed his restaurant in Heritage Square and turned a wagon-shaped lunch cart dating from the 1930s -- all he and his wife could afford at the time -- into O'Brien's Wings & Things. The Things include such down-home delights as chicken-fried chicken sandwiches, plus hamburgers packaged as singles, doubles or triples and served with white-wine-marinated mushrooms or green olives. But the tasty wings are really the thing here, and O'Brien's homemade dressings and sauces -- everything from ranch to raspberry to sesame -- really make them fly.