When Ralph Cramden went bowling, he didn't go to some glitzy joint filled with video games and screaming kids. He went to a place like Sport Bowl, a classic old bowling alley on South Broadway, where the biggest concession to children is the rubber-baby-buggy-bumpers -- specifically, two padded alleys, designed for little kids and bigger ones who can't stand the thought of throwing a gutter ball. The amenities here are sparse, but they're choice: a decent billiards room, good hours (it's open twelve to twelve), league specials and midnight bowling -- and a bar where you can brag about your game after you've thrown that strike.