It's only fitting that one of the town's friendliest Mexican eateries also serves its most mellow chile. Fauso and Armida Corral own Armida's, a cute, unassuming spot with an upstairs for pool players, a dining room for diners and a patio for those who just want to enjoy the view and a few beers. No matter what you're there for, the Corrals zip around like ambassadors from Mazatlan, intent on seeing that you're treated right. And what treats you're treated to: everything from a zippy salsa to top-quality grilled sirloin. But we go on red alert for the red chile, gently spiced, made without meat but not lacking in flavor. A little smoky, with a hint of onion, a touch of garlic and lots of sweet tomato, the purée is as smooth as paint and only slightly thicker. Like everything else at Armida's, the red always tastes freshly made, and it's especially good on the fat, cheese-oozy enchiladas.