Cooking duck isn't all it's quacked up to be: Keeping the flesh moist and the skin non-greasy takes some know-how, and complementing the duck's sweet, faintly gamey flavor without overpowering it or turning the bird into a meaty dessert is trickier still. But at Vesta Dipping Grill, chef Matt Selby makes it all look easy. His brown-sugar-smoked roast duck is something to behold -- although you won't gaze at it too long, because you'll be ripping into the tender duck meat. Although the brown sugar is definitely a factor, it serves as an extension of the duck's own natural sweetness. Augment it with one of Vesta's three dozen dipping sauces (the dried berry chutney and honey soy are our faves), and this dish really flies.