Since Charlie Huang opened his Little Ollie's in Denver (the original is in Aspen), the eatery's gone through a few growing pains. But today Little Ollie is all grown up and serving the cleanest-tasting Chinese food in town. This is flavor-filled fare that showcases natural ingredients and puts a fresh spin on traditional favorites. The steamed whole sea bass, for example, is a delight to the senses -- the ginger and seafood scents start wafting toward your table the second the dish comes out of the kitchen -- and the curried chicken and stir-fried lobster are wonderfully novel approaches to classics. After a lengthy fight with the city, the patio is an officially great place to eat in the winter (it's heated) or summer (excellent people-watching). And finally, Little Ollie's boasts a well-chosen wine list that would be appealing in any restaurant, let alone a Chinese one. Little Ollie wins this award on a wok.