Best Tamales - 2003
Vega, Sean Yontz's upscale Latin/New American restaurant in the old Sacre Bleu space, has a lot of good things going for it. It's a great space, done in cool earthtones with high-backed booths. It has a comfortable bar that's rarely too crowded; friendly, attentive service; and a kitchen that's turning out some of Denver's most innovative cuisine. But perhaps the best thing Vega currently has going for it is an oxtail tamal that fills a corn husk with fresh, creamy masa, then adds oxtail meat and tender white hominy, covering everything with a spicy adobo sauce. Are these tamales just like the ones abuelita used to make? Far from it -- but once you've tried Yontz's take on this Mexican classic, you'll wish more people thought about food the way he does.