Over the years, the almost claustrophobically cluttered India's has gained a very loyal following with its Mughlai Indian cuisine, a gentler and beautifully complex culinary counterpart to the wholesome simplicity of Haryanvi and the richness of Bengali seafood. Whether you're after an adventure, an education, just lunch or a little of all three, the best way to begin is with the tandoori offerings -- and, in particular, the tandoori chicken, the hallmark of Mughlai food, cooked on the bone and stained brick red by spices and tradition. Watch the cooks pull fresh orders out of the smoking tandoor on long metal skewers: This is what it means to barbecue in the mysterious East. India's chicken is sweet and smoky, served in big chunks, bones and all, dressed only with raw slivered onions and lemon quarters -- and that's all it needs. An Indian restaurant may not be what you think of when you're hankering for barbecued chicken, but India's is always our first stop.