The space that holds Brooks Smokehouse Bar-B-Que -- down a driveway and next to a nondescript house on Fairfax Street -- isn't really a garage, but it comes close enough. The Brookses have turned what was once a catering business into one of the best BBQ joints in the city, offering ribs, brisket, chicken, excellent country-style sides and Louella's own fruit punch, all available for eating in or taking out. Spend any amount of time at one of the rickety tables in the back and Ronald will show you the heart of his operation: a line of grills, all kinked for slow wood smoking -- a rarity in today's slap-dash barbecue world. Every meat on the menu comes from these jury-rigged smokers, and every smoker is personally babysat by Ronald, starting very early in the morning and sometimes going very late into the night. That's the kind of dedication it takes to be the best.