In its grasping quest toward food-town respectability, Denver is now home to several restaurants that have gone so far above and beyond the call, they're not just the best of their category here, but can compete with restaurants across the country. Exhibit A: Sushi Den. There's no other sushi restaurant in the Mile High City -- and very few in the continental 48 -- that can match a place that gets orders flown in daily from the fish markets of Japan, serving slices and hand rolls of fish that, in some cases, were swimming less than 24 hours before they arrived in Denver. Thanks to these deliveries, Sushi Den runs daily sets of specials featuring unusual critters (needlefish, baby tuna) rarely seen on other sushi menus, and even the plainest rolls are made from superior ingredients and by sushi chefs who've learned well the lesson that the chef is merely a mode of transport between coolers and customer. This is a kitchen operating without ego -- which is amazing, because if anyone has bragging rights to its product, it's Sushi Den.