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Best Expense-Account Dinner Denver 2007 - Elway's



2500 E. 1st Ave.

Denver, CO 80206


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Readers' Choice: Capital Grille
This isn't to say that we wouldn't eat at Elway's on our own dime. We would, and have, more times than our credit limit can bear. But what we are saying is, if you've got the chance to stick The Man with the bill, then go ring up a whopper at Elway's. Start with a couple of classic martinis at the bar, then retire to the dining room and take a tour through the top end of the menu: the 22-ounce prime bone-in ribeye with cremini mushrooms; one of those food-as-art shrimp cocktails served over a smoking bed of dry ice; a big, beautiful lobster tail; and then a double-shot sugar rush with s'mores and Ding Dongs to round out your meal. With any luck, you may even spot John Elway himself -- which will so impress your boss that he won't quibble over a couple hundred bucks.
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Hopefully Elway's will be off the "Best of Denver 2008" entirely. This place has little redeeming value. Even the bar that people have been glowing over isn't much to write home about.

At a recent visit our table received mediocre service (two waitresses who were completely uncoordinated - showing up right after each other or having large gaps, one dropping the check two minutes AFTER the other had already taken my credit card, etc.) The Buffalo porterhouse was terrible. Not because of the gamey flavor but because they had carved it into little bits and doused it in some kind of chile sauce. The other steaks and seafood that were served at our table were completely unremarkable. They offer the latest fad in steakhouse fare - bone-in filet - but at a ridiculous premium.

Barring the comments from the local "cougars" who have now helped Elway's wrest the "wrinkle room" nickname from Mel's, on no level does Elway's deserve to be on anyone's "Best of" list. If you have a free ticket to spend on dining in Denver you can do far better than this joint.