Anyone can invent some freaky, prawn-and-jackfruit Asian fusion plate with chrysanthemum flowers and pierogi. Some people might even think it inspired. But for us, true talent lies in the ability to cook the favorite plate of your great-great-great-grandfather and make it just the way he liked it more than a century ago. If that ancestor liked Mughlai cuisine -- the food of raiders and interlopers, siege rations brought into India by Muslim invaders -- then he'd appreciate Jewel of India. And so would anyone else ever taken aback -- stunned, stricken momentarily dumb -- by the depth of richness and layered flavor of an Indian entree. The culinary world has the Mughals to thank for that; we're just thankful that Jewel of India keeps the tradition alive.