What's called "Korean BBQ" isn't really barbecue by the traditional American definition, but grilled meats (and assorted other things) served family style and generally cooked on a tabletop grill. But it's just as addictive as the American version, and when we get a hankering, we head for Sae Jong Kwan — aka House of Korean BBQ. From the outside, the restaurant looks dark and alien, but inside, the dining room is loud and bright, with a demographer's nightmare of regulars ordering up round after round of barbecue. But don't overlook the excellent Korean soups, Korean fish dishes, Korean bacon and such dishes as "black goat meat with assorted vegetables and spicy."