Denver Best New American Restaurant - Fruition - Best Of Denver

Food & Drink

Comments (0) Best New American Restaurant - 2009

Fruition

1313 E. 6th Ave.

Denver, CO 80218

303-831-1992

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Readers' Choice: twelve

"New American" is a term that's fallen somewhat out of favor as a way to describe the type of cuisine that essentially marks the page where, in the history of gastronomy, American chefs began asserting themselves as being capable of cooking more than just cheeseburgers and fat steaks. And that's because, for a time, the phrase was used to describe just about every restaurant that wasn't a takeout Chinese place or a Greek diner. But really, the reason that no other Denver restaurant wants to be labeled "New American" is simply because no other New American restaurant in this town (and maybe anymore) could be as good as Fruition. Chef Alex Seidel and his crew take their beef barley soup, oysters Rockefeller, confit pork shoulder and notions of American mastery very seriously, and in the front of the house, partner Paul Attardi takes the ideas of comfort and ease just as seriously — making a room that lulls you into a focused languor where nothing matters but the meal in front of you and the person you're sharing it with.

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5 comments

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Jessica

Well let me start by saying that Fruition should not waste its time listening to Dave. Dave, although the long list of your fave restaurants had a few I would agree with, they just don't compare to Fruition. Time and time again Fruition has proven to me that there is at least one dependable restaurant in Denver. You never have to worry that there won't be something on the menu that sounds (and tastes) amazing, or that the service just won't be good enough. Well, it always is. As for the menu only changing a few times a year - Fruition isn't a place you go to once a week. This is a restaurant to enjoy sparingly in order to really appreciate what they are bringing to the table. On a Colorado winter night, there is no place better.

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Dave

Well, yes Chris, I do happen to have something good to say about all of the following: Frasca, Atelier, Lucile's, Raddo Trattoria, Flagstaff House, Duo, Z Cuisine, Jax, Venice, Morton's of Chicago, Trinity Grill, The Palace Arms, Mizuna, Osteria Marco, Rioja, Barolo, GB Fish and Chips, Lechugas (Pizza and little devils only please), Locanda del Borgo, Marco's Coal Fired Pizza, The Berkshire, Parallel 17, Il Posto, Imperial Chinese, New Saigon, Taste of Thailand, Sushi Den (and Izakaya), Chinook Tavern, Cherry Creek Grill, Capitol Grill, Los Carboncitos, El Taco de Mexico, Tacos Jaliscos, Jack-n-Grill, and Las Tortas. So, I'm not just a nattering naybob of negativism.

Chris

Man Dave, you have anything nice to say about ANYBODY?

Dave

I have gone from being a huge fan to a somewhat ambivalent fan. Some of Alex's food is sublime but lately much of it too salty for our taste. The menu is very limited (I know it's a small kitchen)and only changes seasonally (read maybe four times a year). The room(s) are very tight and you really are going to have dinner with people around you whether you want to or not - sometimes that's ok - sometimes it's really annoying to have your neighbors offer unsolicited opinions. Finally, Paul has brought some of the staff that he and Alex used to work with at Mizuna over to Fruition. That, in a couple of cases, was a mistake.