100 Favorite Dishes: Potato Tacos at El Tejado

No. 80: Potato Tacos at El TejadoWhen the Colorado Department of Revenue shut down Emilio's Mexican Restaurant in February 2015, it also shut off the steady stream of potato tacos that gave us comfort and a little dose of joy each time we stopped in for lunch. While most of...

By Mark Antonation

July 11, 2016

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No. 80: Potato Tacos at El Tejado
When the Colorado Department of Revenue shut down Emilio's Mexican Restaurant in February 2015, it also shut off the steady stream of potato tacos that gave us comfort and a little dose of joy each time we stopped in for lunch. While most Emilio's tacos were of the traditional, soft, corn-tortilla variety, the Colfax Avenue joint's potato tacos were fried to a golden-brown crisp and fattened with a simple stuffing of lightly seasoned potatoes.

For more than a year, we lamented the loss of those tacos, so basic and yet so satisfying. But a recent trip to El Tejado uncovered the South Broadway eatery's own version of the dish, as pure and uncomplicated as that at Emilio's. A trio of tacos arrives on a plate garnished with shredded lettuce and raw onion; the tacos themselves bleed orange oil from a dash of chile powder in the filling. But otherwise, there's nothing but soft potato and the crunch of the tortillas, just a little chewy from their time on the griddle.

And despite the fact that El Tejado makes some of the best green chile in town, there's not a drop of green to be found on this plate. The mild potato tacos need no accompaniment — but a shallow basin filled with a tangy margarita couldn't hurt.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our 2016 countdown are linked below.

No. 100: Masala Beef at Biju's Little Curry Shop
No. 99: Bacon Shrimp and Grits at Bacon Social House
No. 98: Porchetta and Kimchi Sandwich at Brider
No. 97: Squab-and-Sunchoke Tortellini at Abejas
No. 96: Housemade Burrata at Viand
No, 95: Schweinshaxe at Rhein Haus
No. 94 Kimchi Jeon at Seoul BBQ
No. 93: Zuppa Pomodoro at Parisi Italian Market & Deli
No. 92: The Ocean Salad at Sushi-Rama
No. 91: The Signature Bowl from Churn & Burn
No. 90: Green Chorizo at Los Compadres
No. 89: The Diavola Calzone at Pino's Neighborhood Pizzeria
No. 88: Biscuits and Green Chile at the Noshery
No. 87: Chirashi at Izu Sushi
No. 86: Brisket and Ribs at GQue Championship BBQ
No. 85: The Tornado at the Chowder Room
No. 84: Korean Fried Chicken Wings at Yong Gung
No. 83: A Meatball Hero at Lil' Ricci's New York Pizzeria
No. 82: Shakshuka at Stowaway Coffee + Kitchen
No. 81: Late-night Ramen at Brazen

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Mark Antonation is the former Westword Food & Drink Editor. In 2018, he was named Outstanding Media Professional by the Colorado Restaurant Association; he's now with the Colorado Restaurant Foundation.

Contact: Mark Antonation

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